I can recommend any of the following books to help you achieve good fit, no matter what your size or shape. I own or have used almost all of the books on this list, and have been pleased with how they address fit problems. Once your block pattern has been created it then goes through a third process of changing thesizes from a size 8 – 28 and this process is calledgrading. If you would like to know more about What is Grading then you can visit our website by clicking the link.
- Here, I have taped the side bust dart closed to check the side seams.
- Take the armscye depth measurement and add 0.5cm (1/4″).
- There are no extra sizes for fashion or decorative purposes.
- They will then use the blocks as a way to draft a new pattern.
- I currently work in the fashion industry as a part-time pattern maker and designer and as a part-time librarian.
For drafting your own block, you need to refer to my instructions for Drafting Blocks. I suggest you watch the Bodice Block Essential videos. If you make a lot of A-line dresses, you could make yourself an A-Line Block from your Straight Skirt Block, to save that bit of extra work each time you make a pattern for an A-line dress. You can also create other blocks from scratch, such as an Overgarment Block, Jacket Block, or Jeans Block.
Difference between Block Pattern and Production Pattern
I drafted this basic block using Mueller & Sohn pattern making method. Additionally I took into account the difference between bust and underbust measurements, so the fit is much more accurate. The sloper is made for a standard figure and a B/C cup bust.
Save the files to your computer and open them using for example Adobe Acrobat or Adobe Reader. Finally, write the name of the pieced (such as “Bodice Back”), and any other information you think you will need as you work with the pattern. If you’re using your block in a different way, tell me in the comments!
Did you get your copy ofThe Perfect Fit Guide?
You are not permitted to resell, share or distribute the pattern in digital or printed format. If you drafted your block from measurements instead of using a commercial fitting pattern, the process is the same. Use your muslin to transfer your fit adjustments to your paper pattern before proceeding to the cardstock tracing.
Your back width is the horizontal measurement of your back, from the bottom of a standard armhole, across to the other armhole. This measurement is a little tricky to take on your own. Start at the nape of your neck and measure vertically down to your waist. For your bust measurement, find the fullest point of your breasts and take a horizontal measurement from there. You could also tie a piece of elastic around your waist to get the right position and then measure.
Anni building block pattern – The base
Although these tutorials will show you how to go about the techniques required, you may want to learn more about design principles before trying to apply them to patterns. A good place to start would beThe Cutting Class, which has a great combination of fashion and technical content. ‘Ease’ is the difference between your body measurements and the garment https://globalcloudteam.com/glossary/basic-block/ measurements. Blocks will normally include enough ease to get the garment on, but not much more. The basic block is a master pattern from which other patterns are made. Once you have created a Straight Skirt Block with two darts, you can use that to create patterns for a six-gore skirt, and eight-gore skirt, a yoked skirt, or an A-Line skirt.
First Pattern is the pattern developed for each design by any pattern drafting technique. The pattern will require many adjustments and fittings to produce a well-fitted pattern ready for clothing production. Unless the clothing style is asymmetrical, the first pattern will be developed as a half pattern. Eventually, the pattern can be developed into a block pattern.
Types of Basic Blocks
This blog will offer some basic definitions of block pattern engineering for clothing. After that, it is up to you to call your best-selling design however you choose. All block patterns are based on British Standard sizing. Personally, I seldom wear anything as fitted as the fitting dress . I like to add the date (bodies change over time!), and sometimes other notes (such as “no seam allowance”, just to remind me when I’m using the block!).
Dresses, blouses and skirts —in some systems they may share the same basic block, of which I’m not a fan. Take your bust point to point measurement and divide it by 2 and add 0.5cm (1/4″) . From point E, on the bustline, mark https://globalcloudteam.com/ a point, the distance you just found from point E. Again, the easiest way to take this measurement will be to tie a piece of elastic around your bust and have someone measure down from the nape of your neck to the elastic.
Drafting the BACK SHOULDER SEAM
Basic blocks are very figure-hugging and contain only a few allowances for freedom of movement, so that you can see the fit as well as possible. They are also designed for woven fabrics without stretch. So, it makes perfect sense to create a modified basic block for stretchy materials such as knitwear or jersey. Because patterns for stretchy fabrics usually contain only very small or even negative additions.
You can have Easy Fitting Blocks that don’t have darts, and the more oversized the garment the less it needs darts. However, if you have very large breasts you can usually only get away without darts with stretch blocks/fabric. The patterns of different parts of the garments especially the patterns of sleeves, body etc. are made by the technical designer.
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This line is the VERTICAL BUST LINE. Where it intersects CG label as point R and point S where it intersects the WAISTLINE . Join Kto L with a deep curve – this is the front neckline. As we did with the back neckline, check that the curve of the neckline meets the centre front at a right angle . Square up from F , the length of the CENTRE BACK , and mark the end end point as G. This will also be the grainline of your front pattern piece.